My first introduction to stitching was cross stitch, which I dutifully completed throughout my teens and my early adulthood.
My first foray into the wider world of stitching was a Kantha stitch kit by Angela Daymond, whom I came across at a textile fayre. I loved it. The stitches were simple, but the effect beautiful.
Kantha stitching originated in West Bengal over 500 years ago. It means ‘rags’ in Sanskrit. This is because it was traditionally used to repurpose old clothes into bed coverings, blankets and other soft furnishings.
Old saris and other clothing were stitched together in layers.
This was done predominantly using running stitch, often by groups of women sewing together. The running stitch (and whipped running stitch) often gives a slight ripple effect to the finished product.
Sequins and beads were used as decorations to adorn the bright colours often used, such as reds, yellows, greens and blues.
Decoration motifs were taken from the environment around them, mostly animals and flowers, which often had religious and spiritual meanings. Motifs could reveal caste, village and status, and could represent the life of the person making the garment.
Motifs included:
The tree of life representing growth and immortality A lotus flower representing creativity and beauty Fish representing fertility and good fortune Other motifs include peacocks, wheel shapes and elephants, amongst others.
The popularity of Kantha stitched garments and quilts waned, although gained popularity again in the 1940s by the Institute of Fine Arts in West Bengal.
It was revived again in the 1980s when Shamlu Dudeja founded Self Help Enterprise (SHE) that helped empower women and their livelihoods (reference strandsofsilk.com)
Further Reading and references
Angeladaymond.com clothroads.com strandsofsilk.com trc-leiden.nl The Art of Kantha Embroidery by Niaz Zama
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